our climbing teams visiting these areas in June/July 2006

The Peruvian team (Sakshama from Macedonia and Anugata from USA) did some very nice climbing. The acclimatization was done on Pisco(5752m) over a PD route, which was then followed by a climb on Urus (5420m, PD). After these climbs followed the main thing – the climb on the north face of Ranrapalca (6150m). This was done over the route Scandinavian Direct (TD/TD+), which rises about 900m and has difficulties up to V (UIAA scale) on rock and the icy slopes are up to 60-70 degrees. The team spent the night high in the mountain and in the morning satisfied with the climb Sakshama and Anugata returned in their base camp – (not reaching the summit that was about an hour away over easy terrain…) Due to a stormy weather they had to cancel the climb on Artesonraju (6025m)…

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(more photos...)

The team that was in the French Alps (Igor and Vesna Talevski from Macedonia) returned home satisfied only with the climbs planed for their acclimatization. Their main goal was the big Brenva Face of Mt. Blanc (4810m) but due to a storm they had to leave earlier. They climbed Mt Blanc du Tacul (4248m) over its normal route (PD-), the Cosmiques Ridge (PD+) of Aiguille du Midi (3842m) and a route on the North Face Triangle of Mt Blanc du Tacul called Left Edge (AD) that rises about 500m with some excellent mixed climbing… (photos soon)

Cross-posted from