Most of the climbing “scene” in Macedonia at this moment is concentrated in the capital, Skopje, and many foreign climbers passing through the country mostly stay there, so I should first mention the local climbing area in Skopje, called Matka.

Matka is a canyon on the river Treska situated only 30 minutes drive from Skopje. This is a very special place where in the past there were thriving orthodox monasteries and the silent prayers of the monks enchanted the entire area with eternal peace. Now there is only one working monastery, but the churches dotted everywhere around still spread the calming vibration throughout the area.

      
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The artificial lake on the river with a hut on its bank inspire many people to visit the place regularly – just to sit and enjoy the afternoon after work or the weekend with their family and friends. The river is famous for its kayaking course where European or world championships are held. Also, because of the limestone character of the area there are many unusual caves can be found that are subject of research by local and international speleology teams, not to mention the great possibilities for hiking... But for me the most important thing is the rock jutting upwards about 200 metres high. The rock is limestone and very unstable and fragile, yet this is where we all made our first steps in the climbing world and it is very dear to us. There are many routes of four or five pitches and a also few sport-climbing playgrounds, the closest of which is very near to the hut (which is only 10 minutes walk from the parking lot); the rest are not so very far from the hut either.

                  
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- SCMT members climbing on Matka

We visit the place at least every weekend; often it happens that we come almost every day of the week. The routes are, as I said, 4-5 pitches long, with grades from III up to VII- (and up to VIII for the sport climbing routes).

Other areas that we visit for rock climbing in Macedonia are Demir Kapija that has a limestone rock about 300 meters high and Soulunska Glava that has a big amphitheather that in its middle section reaches a height of 600 meters. The exit is on the top of 2538m high Jakupica, making the climbing a real mountain adventure. Due to the long approach and exit route, the remoteness and unstable character of the rock (limestone, again) this face is not frequently climbed and has many possibilities for new routes.

 
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- Matka, Demir Kapija and Solunska Glava


The whole climbing “scene” in the coutnry is in a period of “awakening” and the local climbers are working on the revival of these and other areas: for example, Ostra Karpa, with its granite rock and the frozen waterfalls in the very scenic mountains in the western part of the country…. I will soon write about some of these places; we all hope that very soon they will be put on the “must-do” list of all climbers visiting this part of Europe.

-by Igor Talevski

Cross-posted from