It is hard to say which is 'the' place of pilgrimage in the climber’s world. There are really so many places that deserve the title, places enchanted with the spirit of the climbing pioneers, names that instill respect and awe in every climber's heart.

Take the Dolomites, for example. A big chapter of the history of the modern rock climbing has been written in these Italian mountains with huge limestone faces and towers, signed by names as Comici, Dibona, Dimai, Preuss, Buhl, Solda, Cassin, Dulfer… Many climbs from the beginning of the 20th century were done here that even today’s climbers with their super-safe and reliable equipment would not dare to repeat, preferring instead to stay under the wall and try to imagine how the fellows from the black and white pictures ever managed it…

    

Last year I bought a guidebook in Chamonix, France that has the name “Classic Dolomite Climbs”. It is a nice guidebook that has at least one route for every corner of the Dolomites - a total of around 100 routes. Over the past year I have been reading through this book - each time after a few minutes I would get a headache trying to decide where I would actually like to climb...

For this first visit I decided on the routes concentrated around the Falzarego Pass – a mountain pass about 15km from the town of
Cortina d’Ampezzo where together with my wife, Vesna, we had our “base camp” in one of the town’s camping sites.

Thinking when we should go, the best invitation came – Sri Chinmoy was about to give three concerts in Italy at the end of May in Milano and Torino so we decided to head towards the mountains after these concerts. We were eagerly waiting for these concerts and for this visit of Sri Chinmoy in Europe - every time we came close to this spiritual Master we get so much inspiration by his selfless work to inspire everyone to reach deeper in their own lives. His concerts - where he plays on numerous instruments and sings songs that he has composed in his native Bengali language - are the best inner food that we could get for our planned trip.

     

After the concerts we headed towards Cortina and there we made our plan of when we are going to do the selected climbs that were:

Mountain (height) - route (name)
1. Sass di Stria (2477m) - South Rib
2. Torre Picola di Falzarego(c.2500m) - South Arete
3. Torre Grande di Falzarego (c.2500m) - West Face (Lassato Route)
4. Piccolo Lagazuoi (2778m) - South-West Face (Via del Buco)
5. Piz Popena Basso(2224m) - East Face (2 routes)
6. Cinque Torri (Torre Barancio 2308m) - (2 routes: North Face, and North West Corner)
7. Punta Fiames(2240m) - South Face (Via Comune)

I don’t like to rush things, and when it comes to climbing in an area  where I am visiting for the first time I like to start from easier ground so that I can gauge the lie of the land, so to speak. For this visit we decided to do easier routes that did not exceed the IV+ grade of difficulty (see Rating Systems). Climbing up to VI on a traditional alpine-style routes in our local crags and a bit harder on a well protected bolted routes - but this and the fact that these routes are termed “classic” might give you the false impression that everything was so easy…

“Climbing in the high mountains is to be enjoyed most when the difficulties (and not just those of a technical nature) are well within one’s capabilities and the mind is free to explore things on a deeper level”… we wanted to live up to this quote taken from the guidebook, and have a nice and enjoyable mountain experience.

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Cross-posted from