Piccolo Lagazuoi, Piz Popena Basso...
3 June
Finding the start of the route called “Via del Buco” on the South-West Face of Piccolo Lagazuoi was a little tricky since I recognized the roof in the third pitch looking up from the base of this wall but I was not sure which corner to take since there were two almost close to each other. While going up and down on the scree gully two older Swiss climbers approached the face and came close where I was standing. They didn’t understand a word English but I just mentioned the name of the route and the leader of the party showed me the right hand corner. (There was an orange piton driven in at the start of the left corner, which got my attention). We were ready to start so we went ahead of them and in the first 2-3 pitches they were following us very close. The leader would come at the belay stance while Vesna was belaying…After that they somehow slowed down since the second climber was going slowly but we waited for them at the top and took a picture with us all together because I was very inspired by watching them still climbing at the ages of 53 and 78. We had a small chat at the top, using my broken German. They reminded me an interview I read with Anderl Heckmair (the leader of the first ascent party of the North Face of Eiger in 1938). He was then 93 years old and answering the question when did he stop climbing, he said “two years ago (when he was 91) because he had some strange pain in the leg…” The whole interview was very inspiring and something that I never forgot…Anderl Heckamer died on 2 February 2005, 98 years old.
- On Piccolo Lagazuoi
Looking back on “Via del Buco" - it was very satisfying 250metres long route with 10 pitches with all of the climbing moves in the IV grade area (see Rating Systems). You have corners, slabs, overhang, roof and if not satisfied at the end you can always choose the exit 2 pitches graded V+ in a corner which now was dripping wet. Although in the guidebook it says “abundant protection” I would say that you would never regret taking a rack of nuts, cams and slings wherever you go in the Dolomites since here (and I am not blind) I could only find “abundant possibilities for protection”. There was always good enough crack for a cam or a place to put a sling around… Anyway, if climbing IV is well in your abilities you will enjoy the solid rock and keep climbing through the “hold-covered” route of Piccolo Lagazuoi without being bothered whether there is in-situ protection or you have to put it by your self…For the descent we were not sure about the length of the abseil (it is not written in the book) so we climbed with a single rope and Vesna carried another rope in case the abseil is longer then 25m. But there was no need for abseil at all. There is an excellent system of fixed steel cord and a very solid bridge that got us on the old military path that took us on the approach route.
4 June
The next day we went to find the approach route for Punta Fiames, the most westerly summit in the Pomagagnon group to the north of Cortina. Punta Fiames is a most awe-inspiring sight entering Cortina by car driving from Belluno. The moment I saw it on the picture in the guidebook, I wanted to do it. However, the day was all cloudy and rainy so it was a nice rest day. We couldn’t climb for sure, but we could hike up and check the approach. We parked the car at the hospital complex driving to Olimpia Camping and from there over the meadow we got on the wide path numbered 211. Bearing leftwards we got into a junction point and followed the path 202 that got us through the pine tree forest to the scree from where another junction and a marked path with regular red/white paint (no numbers on it) leads under the South Face of Punta Fiames… At the moment when I got to the very start of the route after about 2 hours approach it started to rain more heavily and we walked (and scrambled through the upper approach chimneys) back. All we needed was a clear day...
5 June
During the night it rained heavily and we didn’t want to climb on a wet 400m high rock that looked slabby… But we didn’t want to lose another day's either so we decided to go towards the Lake Misurina and climb on the nearby Piz Popena Basso. This is a 2224m high mountain where on its East Face we climbed 2 routes. The first one (graded IV+, length 120m) was first climbed by Mazzorana/Adler party on 17 August 1936, and the second one (graded IV, length 130m) was first climbed by Piero Mazzorana on 23 September 1931. They both had 4 pitches. We parked the car on the parking of the Misurina Hotel and after about 45 minutes got under the routes. This was the first time when we met local Italian climbers. It was good that they came after us since 2 parties (5 people) were climbing the first route that we wanted to do and we saw they were still there when we finished it and were at the foot of the wall searching for the start of the second route. Both routes were easy - there was a nice exposed traverse and an easy overhang of IV at the first one. As for the second one, all that I can say is – chimneying. Although the route starts following a corner, my abiding memory is of the chimneys. I really liked them. They were perfectly sized (not too narrow or wide) and climbing at that grade I started to like chimneying again. I found the rock more slippery somehow and there were also a few overhangy slabs and cracks that for a moment made me think that they should perhaps be graded a half-grade more, but it is OK. Good holds – just have to stretch and find them and here there was enough in-situ protection, especially on the crux points. Even knowing this I would advise you to take some slings and nuts, you will at least feel more confident…
- Piz Popena Basso